Snippets of Information
TEXTILES
* 19 Nov 2025
The historic Baluchar textiles of Bengal is a three-hundred-old
weaving tradition known for its unique pictorial representation inspired
by the prevailing socio-cultural and artistic conditions began in the
Nawabi centre of Murshidabad. Over time, this art form disappeared only
to be revived in Bishnupur and Varanasi. Despite the revived textiles
differing in techniques, materials and aesthetics, it is a continuation
of this unique heritage.
Source: Baluchars: The Woven Narrative Silks of Bengal, nationalmuseumindia.gov.in
Baluchari had enjoyed the special patronage of the Murshidabad
court since the 17th century and developed a school of design where
stylised forms of human and animal figures were most interestingly
integrated with floral and geometrical motifs in the elaborately weaver
material.
The Nawabs and Muslim aristocrats used the material produced in raw silk
mainly as tapestry, but Hindu nobleman had it made into Sarees in which
the ground scheme of decoration became a very wide pal lava, often with
a panel of large mango or paisley motifs at the centre, surrounded by
smaller rectangles depicting different scenes.
The silk yarn used at Baluchar was not twisted and therefore had a soft,
heavy texture. The ground colours in which the cloth available were
limited, but they were permanent, are still fresh after hundreds of
years.
Source: textilesdirectorate.wb.gov.in
* 4 Aug 2025
Kani Shawl - Handwoven out of woollen yarn
The shawl gets its name from the use of a number of Kanis or Tujlis
in place of the typical shuttle for the weft yarns. These Kanis are
small, eyeless wooden spokes or sticks with coloured yarns. Kani shawls
are woven in the ‘Twill Tapestry Weave’ with the precise interlocking of
Kani and warp yarns that have been dyed in a variety of colours. This
is a traditional method which the artisans follow with the help of
written instructions in the form of a Talim (literally meaning teaching
or knowledge).
Mentions of Kani Shawl has been found in poetic works of Kashmiri
scholar Kshemendra (in the books Desopadera and Narmemala) who lived
between years 990 and 1065 AD. A 11th century wall painting at the
Alchi Monastry, Ladakh also depicts finely woven Kani Shawls.
Kani shawls are recognisable from their use of typical motifs such as the elongated almond buti with a bent tip (also known as teardrop motif), Kairi (mango) and the Paisley (elongated cone)
which became popular during Mughal rule. These motifs are a coming
together of Mediterranean, Indian and European aesthetic sensibilities.
Common types of Kani Shawl include the Hashiadaar (narrow running borders on all four sides), Palladaar (intricate pattern only on the two ends of the shawl along with narrow borders), Butidaar (small or large 'buti' used repetitively), Khat-e-rass (various striped patterns with almond leaf and flower motifs), Jamawar or Purmattan (intricate patterns and motifs that cover the entire shawl), Chand-daar
(square or rectangular shawls with a central medallion and four quarter
medallions on four corners, also called the moon shawl).
Source: incredibleindia.gov.in
* Jul 2021
Ikkat
Ikkat is the process of creating designs in fabric by resist-dyeing the threads before the fabric is woven.
It is a style of weaving that uses a tie-dye process on either the warp
or weft before the threads are woven to create a pattern or design. A
Double Ikat is when both the warp and the weft are tie-dyed before
weaving.
Ikat designs are also woven in Central and South America, Japan, Indonesia, Bali, Java, Kalimantan (Borneo) and Sumatra.....
References: ikkat.com ; en.wikipedia.org
- Gujarat, in northern India is home of one of the most famous ikat
traditions called the Patan Patola. These silk fabrics are double ikat,
traditionally done with vegetable dyes, but now using chemical dyes.
- Koyalagudum, Andra Pradesh specialize in warp ikat particularly suitable
for furnishing fabrics made from cotton. Sarees are also woven here.
- ORISSAN style of ikat has a long tradition dating back at least to the
12th century. Weavers migrated from the Patan area bringing the basic
techniques which then developed over time to a unique style of flowing
designs.
Reference: textiletravels.com
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